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Hiển thị các bài đăng có nhãn Smart Phone. Hiển thị tất cả bài đăng
Hiển thị các bài đăng có nhãn Smart Phone. Hiển thị tất cả bài đăng

Apple iPhone 7 – How to replace the battery

 Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Warm up the lower edge of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the display inplace. Allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding.
Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button.
Pull up the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. 
Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
Remove the spudger from the left side of the iPhone and insert the flat edge into the bottom right corner of the device.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.
Do not raise the display more than 10 Degree as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from thefront panel.
Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.
Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
At this point you may lay the phone down on a flat surface like an open book.
Remove the following tri-point Y000 screws from the lower connector bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws (RED)
One 2.4 mm screw (ORANGE)
Remove the lower connector bracket.
Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.
Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Remove the bracket.
Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
Remove the display assembly.
Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric ventto the rear case.
Remove the vent.
Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engineto the rear case.
Remove the Taptic Engine.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.
Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60 Degree angle or less.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.
Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved.
Warm up the rear case, After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.
Do not insert the card from the right, as prying against the logic board can damage it. Also, be sure to not bend the battery.
Don't pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the volume controls ribbon cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.

Sony Xperia M4 Aqua – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the LCD display – Mobiles and smartphones repair and service

Place the phone face-down, and use a heat gun or hair dryer to evenly heat the back surface until to soften the adhesive.
Attach a suction cup to the back of the M4 Aqua by carefully pushing down on it near the top of the phone.
While Pulling on the suction cup, slide a thin plastic spacer (guitar picks work well) between the back cover and the phone. Slide it around the edges to break the adhesive. Be careful, but don't be afraid to use some force. You should hear a sticky breaking sound.
Remove the back cover by pulling it from the chassis. it is flexible and can be bent, be careful.
Near the bottom of the phone, unscrew the two phillips head screws, one 3 millimeters and the other 4 millimeters,
Remove the black plastic strip to reveal the speaker assembly. It is hooked underneath the circuit board beneath, force will be required to pry it out. Carefully unplug the microphone connector as you do this, ensuring not to snap it.
Remove the Metal LCD assembly cover by lifting up and pulling it out away from the edge of the phone, towards the middle. Disconnect the LCD connector. The assembly cover is flexible and can be bent, be careful when applying force. Carefully unstick the connector from underneath the LCD cover
Removing the screen is similar to how the back cover is removed.
Apply heat evenly to the screen attach a suction cup near the top of the phone, and use a plastic spacer to break the adhesive seal between the screen and the phone housing. Twisting the spacer can help to separate the back plate from the chassis.
Remove the screen by pulling it away from the chassis

Nexus 5X – Disassembling – How to replace the battery

Insert a SIM card ejection tool into the SIM card slot located on the left edge of the phone.
Press in with the tool of your choice until it pops out of the side of the phone.
Remove the SIM card slot tray and set aside.
Starting at the SIM card slot, stick the plastic opening tool in between the back panel and the phone.
Slide the opener tool gently around the phone until you hear clicks and visibly see the panel separate from the body of the phone.
Continue this process on each edge of the phone, until the only thing holding the back panel to the body of the phone is the fingerprint scanner.
Gently detach the back panel from the finger print scanner on the back of the phone.
Remove the ten screws securing the middle frame using a Phillips #000 bit piece.
Starting from the bottom, use a plastic opening tool to pry off the middle panel from the phone.Be careful when doing this because the middle panel comes in two pieces and if you start at the top, you may break the connectionbetween the two pieces.
Using a plastic opening tool or fingernail, gently pry up the battery cable connector to release it from the motherboard.
Using an Opener, or something similar, heat the phone so the adhesive will loosen.
Carefully insert a single flat nylon spudger underneath the battery.
Apply enough pressure to release the battery from the adhesive holding it to the phone.
Removed the motherboard completely before attempting to remove the battery due to the
adhesive on our device being too strong and we did not want to damage the motherboard. similar to use.
Be extremely careful when doing this, if you use something sharp you may pierce the battery.

Apple iPhone 7 Plus – Disassembling procedure – How replace the display

Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take extra care not to expose youriPhone to liquid damage after completing your repair.
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the  Phone.
Slightly warm up the lower edge of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the display in place.
Wait about a minute for the adhesive to warm up before proceeding.
Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front  panel and rear case.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen  up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.
Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.
Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.
Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.
Do not raise the display more than 10 degree as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
At this point you may lay the phone down on a flat surface like an open book.
Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:
Three 1.2 mm screws (red)
One 2.6 mm screw (orange )
Remove the lower display cable bracket.
Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.
Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, theconnector can bend, causing permanent damage.
Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:
One 1.3 mm screw (Red)
Two 1.0 mm screws (Orange)
Remove the bracket.
Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
Remove the display assembly.
Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
One 1.1 mm screw (Red)
Three 1.3 mm screws (Orange)
Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.
Disconnect the home/Touch ID sensor cable by carefully prying open its press connector.
Carefully pry up the remaining, bottom portion of the press connector, which is lightly adhered to the home/Touch ID sensor cable beneath.
Don't try to detach the press connector completely,simply separate the adhesive holding it in place.
Flip the display assembly over, and warm up thehome/Touch ID sensor area for about 90 seconds.
Using an opening pick, carefully slice through the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly.

Huawei P7 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the screen

Heat the glass panel on the back to around 85 Degree C so the adhesive loosens.
Use a plastic spudger or opening tool to gently pry up the glass.
Carefully work your way around the edges.
Be careful at the bottom. There is a flex cable running near the back-glass.
Never use metal tools for this. Metal will scratch the black paint off the back plate.
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First, disconnect the battery cable.
Use a philips screwdriver to remove the shield, revealing the battery connection.
Next, disconnect the LCD/Digitizer ribbon.
Remove the battery.
Use plastic tools to pry the battery off its adhesive.
Don't bend, or heat the battery.
Heat the front side to about 85 Degree C.
Using a plastic tool, separate the display from the frame, but don't pull it too far away.
Flipping the phone over, can see the display ribbon.
Make sure none of this cable is stuck to the frame.
Pull the display ribbon through the frame.
If the screen broken while removing,make sure there is not a single glass-shard left on the frame. Any little splinter will cause significant damage to the new screen you're about to place.
Tape up the whole frame with double-sided tape for a perfect fit that won't become loose.
Put the new screen in.

HTC Desire V – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board – Mobiles and smartphone repair and service

Gently pry back cover away from phone.
If you are having difficulty you may need to use a Spudger or plastic opener.
Lever the battery out from the bottom end first.
If you have trouble you can use the opening tools or the spudger again.
Unscrew five 3.0 mm black torx screws at the positions circled in orange.
Use a Torx T5 screwdriver.
Using an opening tool or a spudger, gently remove the plastic back cover.
Remove the connector on left side of the Navigation board by unplugging/prying the orange ribbon.
Use a spudger or the opening tools if you have trouble disconnecting.
Gently unplug and remove aerial cable (black antenna) from bottom plug.
If you lack usable nails, you will need tweezers.
Now Board will be stuck down by glue.
Pull gently from the right end of the board, being careful of it's flexibility.
Unplug the vibration motor shown from the white plug on the motherboard.
You will probably need tweezers to do this.
Gently remove the motor from its housing in the phone’s chassis.
The easiest way to do this is to lever the motor out by its rotating end using the tweezers.
You should see a black ribbon cable, which was connected at the left to the Nav board, and on the right, to a gold ribbon cable which goes to the screen.
Unlock the gold ribbon cable connecting screen to logic board by lifting the locking tab at the back of the socket.
For this you may wish to use a spudger or tweezers.
Disconnect gold ribbon cable connecting screen to logic board by pulling cable out gently.
Gently unstick black ribbon cable from the chassis.
Unscrew the 2mm silver screw from top left.
Use a Phillips PH00 Screwdriver for this.
Gently pry logic board from the casing by lifting the left side up, as if there was a hinge on the right, folding it over the right edge where you will see a gold/orange ribbon cable.
Remove the gold ribbon cable by lifting tab at the back of the socket, using a spudger or tweezers.
Gently pull the logic board to the right and it will disconnect from the chassis.
Note that the rear side of the black ribbon cable is gold, use a spudger or an opening tool to gently disconnect it from the motherboard by levering it up at the right side.
Gently unplug and remove antenna cable (black antenna) from socket beside the ribbon cable.
If you lack usable nails, you will need tweezers.
Locate the camera.
Lift the locking tab at the back of the connector for the camera using tweezers or opening tools.
Preferably using tweezers, gently pull the camera assembly up from the motherboard, and away from the connector and the ribbon cable will slide out easily.

Apple iPhone 4 – How to replace the Vibration motor – Mobiles and smartphones repair and service

Apple iPhone 4

Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.
Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.
Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.
The panel will move about 2 mm.
Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .
Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.
If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.
Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Pry from the top and bottom of the connector bracket -there isn't as much of an overhang on the sides, and you may damage the connector. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.
Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.
Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.
You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.
Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.
Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact. 

Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.
This may require a significant amount of force.
Remove the SIM card and its holder.
Remove the following two screws:
Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable.
Use an opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.
Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.
Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.
Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the logic board:
One 2.3 mm Phillips
Two 1.6 mm Phillips
One 1.4 mm Phillips
One 4.8 mm Phillips
When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.
Make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips screw back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.
Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.
Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector. 
Use an opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Remove the rear camera.
Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:
Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)
LCD cable (pry from bottom)
Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)
Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)
Front camera cable (pry from top)
Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.
When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield.
If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.
When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.
When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place.
Without this part, the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.
Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.
Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.
On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the front camera.
Remove the front camera retainer.
During reassembly, position the clip's tabs on the outside of the receiving metal slots.
Carefully lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone.
It may be helpful to use tweezers to reinstall the front camera retainer.
Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:
One 6 mm Phillips screw
One 1.4 mm Phillips screw
Remove the vibrator from the inner case.

Blu Studio Selfie – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the Microphone

Make sure your phone is powered off.
Turn the front of the phone away from you.
Run your fingers along the sides of the phone to identify where the case can be pulled apart.
Insert the flat end of your plastic opening into the crevice you found along the side of the phone.
Gently apply pressure until you feel the back case pop free of the phone.
Continue the previous two steps around the rest of the phone until the case is fully removed.
Identify the crevice at the bottom of the battery.
There should be enough space for you to fit your fingernail between the battery and the phone.
Gently lift the battery free of the phone.
Remove all the 4mm Phillips #000 screws from the midframe.
Insert the spudger between the midframe and the display assembly.
Gently pry up the midframe. The metal spudger is great when you need serious prying power, but the regular black nylon spudger or a plastic opening tool should be used whenever possible.
Where the battery rested before, you will find a small clip that holds down the midframe.
After the rest of the midframe is detached, from the phone place the flat end of the spudger beneath the clip.
Gently lift up on the clip until it comes free.
Remove the midframe from the phone.
Locate the microphone which has a small plastic protective covering.
Using a tweezers pull out the microphone  
Remove three 4mm Phillips #000 screws holding the motherboard in place.
Carefully lift the motherboard from the phone, exposing the microphone.
Desolder the microphone.

HTC SMT 6175 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the mother board

Flip the phone around so that the camera and back face you.
With both thumbs, push the back case down and away from yourself.
Lift the case away from the rest of the phone.
Insert a thumb or finger of choice into the notch above the battery. Pull the battery away from the rest of the phone.
To remove the back casing inside the phone, unscrew the 6 screws, using a small pentagonal screwdriver head, that are around the perimeter of the phone.
Carefully pull off black casing.
Warning: This can be difficult, but just start pulling the back out from the front shell. As it starts to lift up, continue moving around the phone until the whole back becomes free.
Next unscrew the top screw using a small philips screwdriver. You are now able to pull the motherboardback.
Be CAREFUL because the LCD screen is still attached to the front side of the motherboard by a flexible ribbon cable and to the front case by an adhesive.
Using a spudger, remove the display screen from its cell within the front case by inserting the spudger next to the LCD on the opposite side of the side where the motherboard is attatched.
The LCD is attached with a sticky adhesive so it might be difficult to get off.
Place motherboard down on top of LCD. Using tweezers, remove the yellow piece of tape covering the end of the flat ribbon cable.
Peel off the silver tape covering the flat ribbon cable. The motherboard is now free from the rest of the phone.
The sticky gray tape might have to ripped it in order to be removed, due to its extremely sticky properties.

Nokia Lumia 610 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the touch screen


Slide the back cover off, and remove the battery
There are 8 Torx 5 screws you have to remove, 4 on each side
After removing all 8 screws, proceed to prying off the back cover
This is done very easily, by prying it from the 3 grooves depicted
This step might also be done using your nails, as the clips are not strong at all
Watch out - the buttons easily fall out; just make sure you don't loose any.
Lift the back cover up, and pull it back - most likely, the 2 sided tape sealing the camera module will be the last thing to break loose
Make sure you stick it back to the rear case assembly after this step
Disconnect the 2 ribbon cables connecting the LCD & Digitizer to the motherboard
Lift the motherboard up from the back, and pull it backwards
Apply the same motion as with the back casing
You should now have separated the motherboard from the LCD/Digitizer Assembly
To detach the LCD, gently lift it from the sides - be careful, and don't pull too hard on the ribbon cable.
It's secured in with pretty weak double-sided tape, so this step shouldn't be a problem.
Remove the ear-piece speaker from the Digitizer Assembly
It's held in by - again - pretty weak double-sided tape
2nd picture gives you a look of the front of the speaker unit - it's pretty hard to damage the membrane - though, be too careful
Something very easy to forget - remove the tiny rubber gasket for the microphone, and place it in the new front panel.

Xiaomi Mi 3 – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the mother board

Insert the sim card removal tool into the hole located at the top of the phone. Press the tool firmly into the phone to get the sim card tray to eject from the slot.
Remove the two Phillips head screws located on the top of the phone.
One is hidden under an orange sticker, removal of this sticker will void your warranty, this sticker can be removed using a set of tweezers.
Removal of the orange sticker reveals a hidden screw that needs to be removed.
We now want to insert a pry tool into the upper portion of the phone, where there is a small gap between screen and frame of the phone.
Be careful when working the pry tool on the phone as it can result in damage to the phone's screen or other components.
Once a pry tool has been inserted into the phone, work it around the entire perimeter of the phone until the screen of the phone separates from the frame.
Once a pry tool has been inserted into the phone, work it around the entire perimeter of the phone until the screen of the phone separates from the frame.
The phone should now be separate from the exterior frame portion of the phone.
Place the phone screen side down with the camera located at the top.
Remove the 7 Phillips head screws, located on the upper portion of the phone.
One of these screws is hidden under an orange sticker at the top right corner of the phone, removal of this sticker can be removed using a set of tweezers.
Remove the 3 screws located at the bottom of the back side of the phone.
Using tweezers, remove the rubber dust cover on the back panel of the phone.
Not necessary for this goal. Do this for your own fun, if you like. Insert a plastic opening tool into the bottom of the phone, then work it around the lower portion of the phone in order to remove it from the plastic cover.
Insert a plastic opening tool into one of the top corners of the phone, then work it around the exterior portion of the phone until the plastic cover can be easily removed from the phone.
After working the pry tool the top cover can be easily removed.
Some models have their NFC antenna on the back of the battery glued to the top cover. It is not possible to remove the top cover without the battery. In that case, check the touchscreen guide.
Using a spudger, remove the small ribbon cable that is connected to the battery.
Now grab a hold of the "Battery Removal" tab that is attached to the battery, located at the left side of the back portion of the phone. Lifting up on the tab should remove the battery out of the phone.
It may take some force to remove the battery as it is also adhered to the phone with two pieces of double sided tape.
The battery is now removed from the phone.
Using a pry tool, disconnect the antenna wire that is connected to the lower left portion of the motherboard.
Using a pry tool, disconnect the ribbon cable for the LCD display that is connected to the lower right part of the motherboard.
Using a pry tool, disconnect the ribbon cable that is connected to the bottom right corner of the mother board.
Disconnect another cable ribbon that is connected at the top of the motherboard.
Disconnect the other cable ribbon that is next to the the last one you removed.
Not needed step. You Can remove motherboard without removing this flex except if : you want to change this flex or change the touchscreen assembly. Using a pry tool, gently pry the side control buttons assembly away from the case.
Remove the two screws shown in the pictures. The first screw is located next to the rear facing camera, the second is located on the right side of the phone next to the vibration module.
Now use a small pry tool to gently pry the motherboard up. The motherboard can now be gently removed from the phone.
The motherboard has now been successfully removed.
With the motherboard removed you can use tweezers to remove the vibrator rather easily.