Apple iPhone 7 – How to replace the battery

 Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Warm up the lower edge of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the display inplace. Allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding.

Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button.

Pull up the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. 

Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Remove the spudger from the left side of the iPhone and insert the flat edge into the bottom right corner of the device.

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

Do not raise the display more than 10 Degree as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from thefront panel.

Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
At this point you may lay the phone down on a flat surface like an open book.

Remove the following tri-point Y000 screws from the lower connector bracket:

Three 1.2 mm screws (RED)
One 2.4 mm screw (ORANGE)
Remove the lower connector bracket.

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Remove the bracket.

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Remove the display assembly.

Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric ventto the rear case.

Remove the vent.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engineto the rear case.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60 Degree angle or less.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved.

Warm up the rear case, After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

Do not insert the card from the right, as prying against the logic board can damage it. Also, be sure to not bend the battery.

Don't pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the volume controls ribbon cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.

Apple iPhone 7 Plus – Disassembling procedure – How replace the display

Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take extra care not to expose youriPhone to liquid damage after completing your repair.
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the  Phone.

Slightly warm up the lower edge of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the display in place.

Wait about a minute for the adhesive to warm up before proceeding.

Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front  panel and rear case.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen  up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

Do not raise the display more than 10 degree as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
At this point you may lay the phone down on a flat surface like an open book.

Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

Three 1.2 mm screws (red)
One 2.6 mm screw (orange )

Remove the lower display cable bracket.

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, theconnector can bend, causing permanent damage.

Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

One 1.3 mm screw (Red)
Two 1.0 mm screws (Orange)
Remove the bracket.

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Remove the display assembly.

Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

One 1.1 mm screw (Red)
Three 1.3 mm screws (Orange)

Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

Disconnect the home/Touch ID sensor cable by carefully prying open its press connector.

Carefully pry up the remaining, bottom portion of the press connector, which is lightly adhered to the home/Touch ID sensor cable beneath.

Don't try to detach the press connector completely,simply separate the adhesive holding it in place.

Flip the display assembly over, and warm up thehome/Touch ID sensor area for about 90 seconds.

Using an opening pick, carefully slice through the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly.

Apple iPhone 4 – How to replace the Vibration motor – Mobiles and smartphones repair and service

Apple iPhone 4

Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.
Your iPhone 4 rear cover may have either two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws (second image). Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

The panel will move about 2 mm.

Pinch the rear panel with your fingers and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.
If you are installing a new rear panel, be sure to remove the plastic protective sticker from the inside of the camera lens and the sticker from the large black area near the lens.

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Some devices may have two screws, one of which holds down the contact pad which is located above the screw indicated in red in the photo.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Pry from the top and bottom of the connector bracket -there isn't as much of an overhang on the sides, and you may damage the connector. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.
Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

Use the clear plastic pull tab to gently lift the battery out of the iPhone.

You may need to use a plastic opening tool to loosen the adhesive under the battery.
Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip (shown in red) is properly positioned next to the battery connector.
Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact. 
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.

This may require a significant amount of force.
Remove the SIM card and its holder.

Remove the following two screws:

Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable.

Use an opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.

Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.

Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board. Doing so may tear the cable.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.

Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the logic board:

One 2.3 mm Phillips
Two 1.6 mm Phillips
One 1.4 mm Phillips
One 4.8 mm Phillips
When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.
Make sure to put the long 4.8 mm Philips screw back in correctly when reassembling. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.

Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pull the Wi-Fi retaining clips away from the inner frame.
Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector. 

Use an opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Remove the rear camera.

Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:

Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)
LCD cable (pry from bottom)
Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)
Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)
Front camera cable (pry from top)

Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff near the headphone jack.
When reassembling the device, this standoff sets the height of the Wi-Fi shield.
If not torqued down, the shield will be above the plane of the frame and the back will not slide into place. The shield should be flush with the headphone jack.
When reassembling the motherboard, ensure that its edge sits under the circled standoff, otherwise the screws will not fit.
When reassembling ensure that the small rubber spacer attached to the top of the motherboard is in place.
Without this part, the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.

Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.

Be careful not to damage the small gold prong (marked in red, near the top) as it's very fragile.
On reassembly, be careful not to trap the lower antenna cable beneath the logic board.

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the thin steel front camera retainer off the front camera.

Remove the front camera retainer.
During reassembly, position the clip's tabs on the outside of the receiving metal slots.

Carefully lift the front facing camera out of the iPhone.

It may be helpful to use tweezers to reinstall the front camera retainer.

Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:

One 6 mm Phillips screw
One 1.4 mm Phillips screw
Remove the vibrator from the inner case.

Apple Thunderbolt Display – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the display – How to remove the power supply – how to remove the mother board

SPECIFICATION 

27" TFT Active-Matrix LCD
2560 by 1440 Pixel Resolution
Built-in Thunderbolt and MagSafe Cables
FaceTime HD Camera with Microphone
49 Watt 2.1 Speaker System
16:9 Widescreen Aspect Ratio

The Thunderbolt Display contains a sweet lineup of USB, HDMI, VGA, and DisplayPort ports
The luscious backside of the Thunderbolt Display contains only a small line of specified ports:
Three powered USB 2.0 ports
FireWire 800 port
Thunderbolt port
Gigabit Ethernet port.
The Thunderbolt Display also comes with a built-in Thunderbolt cable attached to a Universal MagSafe cable.

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Much like the iMac we tore apart earlier this year (and the iMacs before it), the Thunderbolt
Display's front glass panel comes off with the help of some heavy duty suction cups.

It's time to take a look under the hood. A few connectors and a ground screw are all that prevent the freedom of the LCD

The 27-inch (diagonal) TFT activematrix LCD has a resolution of 2560 by 1440 pixels, the standard for displays of this size and price. Its 12 ms response time and 16.7 million colors, however, fall short of the 6 ms response time and 1.07 billion colors

The back of the LCD display has only a few cables, none too exciting:

DisplayPort
LED backlight
LED backlight sync
Ground loop.
The LG display reads model number LM270WQ1.

It appears to be the same display found in the iMac Intel 27"

With  LCD removed you get a full frontal view of the Thunderbolt Display's inner layout.

The fan is easily removed simply by detaching a couple of connectors and unfastening a few screws.

Apple has, as usual, chosen to go with a large, brushless fan to keep the colossal Thunderbolt Display nice and cool.

In pursuit of self-preservation, begin by disconnecting the power supply connector from its socket on the logic board to prevent any electrifying experiences.

A few more T10 Torx screws bite the dust at the hand of our bit driver kit, and the logic board is detached.

Remove a plethora, of connectors from the logic board, leaving only the brains behind the Thunderbolt port between us and the display's control center.

A few T6 Torx screws are knocked out to remove the connector cover, and the Thunderbolt cable is disconnected.

Interestingly enough, the Thunderbolt cable that routes into the display also plugs into a standard Thunderbolt socket on the logic board. Apple could have just soldered the cable wires to the board, but instead chose to implement a cover that prevents the cable from being detached from the logic board's Thunderbolt socket

St. Damien's beard! The front of the logic board includes these stellar packages:

Pericom PI7C9X440SL PCIe-to-USB 2.0 host controller L129NB11 EFL, which looks to be the Thunderbolt port controller (as viewed in the second picture)
Analog Devices ADAV4601 audio processor
NXP LPC2144 USB 2.0 microcontroller
Delta LFE9249 10/100/1000 Base-T LAN filter
SMSC USB2517-JZX USB 2.0 hub controller
LPC 1114F

Sweet grandmother's spatula! The back of the board also contains doodles of chips:

Maxim MAX9736B Mono/Stereo
High-Power Class D Amplifier
Texas Instruments LC573A Dtype Latch
Silego SLG8SP568VCK505 Clock Generator
LSI L-FW643E-2 Open Host Controller Interface
Broadcom BCM57761 Gigabit ethernet controller
Texas Instruments NH245 Dual Supply Translator
Supertex HV9982 3-channel switch-mode LED driver IC

With the logic board removed, we move on to the power supply board.

A few screws and connectors are all that are stopping us from removing the board.
Make quick work of them and the Flextronics power supply board comes free.

Thunderbolt Display's power supply board

About 250 watts of maximum continuous power

You will see some fairly large speaker enclosures (well, for a monitor) near the side edges of the Thunderbolt Display and eagerly remove the screws holding them in place.

The Thunderbolt Display comes with a 49 watt 2.1-speaker sound system, including a miniature subwoofer.

A couple screws and a single connector keep the HD FaceTime camera secured to the case.

The front side of the camera board:

cFeon LV010-45RNIP 11113A 1110ADA
The rear side of the camera board:
Vimicro VC0338BSMCB Camera Controller
Texas Instruments TPS65708 Power Management Unit

Apple MacBook Pro 15 – How to dismantle the Display

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.
You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw.

Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.
Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.
Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the

AirPort/Bluetooth board.

De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:

One 3.8 mm Phillips
One 8.6 mm Phillips

Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.

Remove two of the three 6 mm T6

Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.
We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.
While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

Apple Wireless Keyboard – Disassembling procedure

To open the battery compartment, on the left side of the keyboard use a coin to loosen the screw off cover.
The keyboard's power button is on the right side

The upper left hand corner (when turned over) of the keyboard contains the On/Off switch and the bluetooth board.

The removable plastic covering plate may be removed by squeezing it together to release the retaining hooks, Do one side at a time, Squeeze and rotate upward.

The plastic is very stiff and there are three sets of two hooks on each side. This one has been deformed on the back right hand side from a heat gun.

There is a 90 mm by 12 mm circuit board intersected by a vertical 53 mm by 7 mm board forming a T shape. The vertical board appears to be the bluetooth antenna.
Part # 820-2181 is printed on the board.
This board also has the Power Indicating LED light. This board fits inside the round casing unit by the power button. The power button, battery connector and keyboard all connect to this board.

Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap. Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket. It slides out from under the 'vertical' board. Shouldn't be too difficult.

The board is held in place with a small Phillips screw.

Ater removing the screw the board can be gently extricated from the tube. The white plastic disc to the right of the screw needs to be pushed to the right to free up the board.
Note the red and black wires. This connector inserts laterally. The wires go to the battery receptor in the middle of the tube.
The screw is in two parts, a phillips screw goes into a post screw. The top screw holds in the board and the post screw holds the On/Off switch in place.

Here's the obverse of the board. There is a black two prong connector that plugs into the board from the power switch.

The wires run under a small plastic retaining tab and can be moved downward and out.

The power switch is held in place by the Main Board Bracket. Apple Part # 815-9674. The end of the bracket has a small round protrusion that fits into a crescent shaped cut out on the power switch.

The Power Button Board can be pushed out from the inside.
The red wire goes to "TP2", the black wire to "TP1"

The internal battery terminal can be knocked out with a long screwdriver. It is spring loaded and held in place by a metal expansion ring.

I could not discern how the exact placement is determined as the interior of the tube appears to be perfectly smooth.

More photos of the battery terminal.

Removal of the back of the keyboard was done using a heat gun and a scalpel.

Heating the board quickly warps and destroys it.
Glue is all over the bottom plate. It was separated by pulling it apart and slicing the glue with a scalpel.

There are ten 2 mm screws located on the back of the board.

The keyboard is pushed away from the frame.

The layers are pulled apart. Frame, plastic separator layer, printed circuit layer

Here can be seen the layers of the frame, separator, circuit board and metal back plate.

Here we can see the different types of key mounting and scissor mountings

Keys can be easily removed by using a scalpel or fingernail under the left side and lifted.

Here you can see the pole that the screw went in. You can remove this, which allows you to remove the power button and the white housing.

Also, here is the battery terminal (spring loaded) which had to be forced out.

Apple iPad Wi-Fi - How to replace the Dock Connector Cable

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.

With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.

The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.

Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.

In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:

Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.

Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.

Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connectorfrom its socket by gently prying upward.

Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

Remove the two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connectorcable to the main board.

Remove the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw connecting the dockconnector cable to the rear case assembly.

Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connectorcable to the rear panel assembly.

Carefully remove the plastic cover over the WiFi/Bluetooth board anddock connector cable using a plastic opening tool.

Pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up off their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetoothboard.

Remove the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly.