Nintendo 3DS – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the mother board

Unscrew the four Phillips #00 screws along the top of the backcover.
The screws are held in place by locking washers, and will not comeout of the back cover.
The comments section is full of unlucky souls who will tell you thatthe screws here through step 4 will strip incredibly easily. Press downfairly hard, and go slow.

Hold the device in one hand and turn it over.

Grab the top edge of the back cover with your opposite hand so that the cover does not fall back into place.
Flip the 3DS over again so that the back cover is facing up.
Pull the back cover up and away from the rest of the device to remove it.

Insert a plastic opening tool into the notch in the lower case above the battery.

Pry the battery up with the plastic opening tool.
Grab the top edge of the battery and lift it out of the lower case.

Remove the nine 6.3 mm black

Phillips screws from the lower case.
Remove the 2.4 mm silver Phillips screw above the game cartridge slot.

Lift the bottom edge of the lower case off the rest of the 3DS.

There are still two ribbon cables connecting the mother board to the case, so be sure not to pull the lower case all the way off.
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the shoulder button ribbon cables off their sockets on the motherboard.
Remove the lower case from the device.

Remove the two 7.7 mm Phillips screws securing the back of the

Circle Pad to the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the back of the Circle Pad off the motherboard.

Lift the Circle Pad joystick off the motherboard and lay it on its back so that the ribbon cable connector is accessible.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the Circle Pad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Lift the Circle Pad joystick off the motherboard.

To decrease the chance of losing it during repairs, you may want to remove the two thin pads underneath the Circle Pad joystick.

Use a spudger or screwdriver to lift the pads up and remove them from the device.

Remove the two 4.5 mm Phillips screws securing the SD board to themotherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SD board ribbon cable connector off its socket on the motherboard.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the SD board and the motherboard.

Run the spudger along the sides of the SD board to free it from the adhesive pad holding it in place.
Once completely freed, lift the SD board straight off the motherboard.

Slide the flat end of a spudger under the corner of the Wi-Fi board, and lift it away from the motherboard.

The Wi-Fi antenna cable is still connected to the Wi-Fi board, so you cannot completely remove the Wi-Fi board yet.

Lift the Wi-Fi board off the motherboard and rotate it so that the bottom side is facing up.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector off its socket on the Wi-Fi board.
Remove the Wi-Fi board from the device.

Grasp the microphone ribbon cable near the microphone with a pair of tweezers.
Pull the microphone straight up out of the upper case.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the speaker assembly ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, NOT the socket itself. Damaging the socket or cable will result in a 3DS that will blink its power LED when you press the power button - and do nothing else.
Disconnect the speaker assembly ribbon cable with a pair of tweezers.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
When reassembling, note that the gold contacts face toward the motherboard (as opposed to the camera cable's gold contacts facing away).

Remove seven Phillips screws securing the motherboard to the upper case:

Four 2.5 mm gold screws
Two 3.5 mm black screws
One 2.5 mm silver screw
Lift the side of the motherboard that sits along the bottom edge of the 3DS.

Continue lifting the motherboard assembly and rotate it until it is resting next to the rest of the device.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Remove the motherboard assembly from the rest of the device.

Peel the black silicone cover off the back of the D-pad.

Open the 3DS and orient it so that the bottoms of the buttons are facing upward.

Use your finger to push the D-pad through its hole in the upper case.
Remove the D-pad.

HP SlateBook 10 x2 PC – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the display – How to remove the battery

 

Display enclosure

Before disassembling the tablet, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the tablet. If you are unsure whether the tablet is off or in Hibernation, turn the tablet on, and then shut it down through the operating system.
2. Disconnect the power from the tablet by unplugging the power cord from the tablet.
3. Disconnect all external devices from the tablet.
Remove the display enclosure:

1. Lift up on the bottom edge of the display enclosure (1) until the tabs built into the enclosure release from the display assembly.

2. Remove the display enclosure (2) from the tablet.

3. Remove the display enclosure.
Reverse this procedure to install the display enclosure.

3. Remove the display enclosure.

Display panel cable

Remove the display panel cable:
1. Release the system board ZIF connector (1) to which the display panel cable is attached, and then disconnect the display panel cable from the system board.
2. Release the display panel ZIF connector (2) to which the display panel cable is attached, and then disconnect the display panel cable from the display panel.

3. Remove the display panel cable (3).

Power button board

1. Release the ZIF connector (1) to which the power button board cable is attached, and then disconnect the power button board cable from the system board.
2. Detach the power button board cable (2) from the battery. (The power button board cable is attached to the battery with double-sided tape.)
3. Detach the power button board (3) from the display assembly. (The power button board is attached to the display assembly with double-sided tape.)

4. Remove the power button board.

Volume button board

Remove the volume button board:
1. Release the ZIF connector (1) to which the volume button board cable is attached, and then disconnect the volume button board cable from the system board.
2. Detach the volume button board cable (2) from the battery. (The volume button board cable is attached to the battery with double-sided tape.)
3. Detach the volume button board (3) from the display assembly. (The volume button board is attached to the display assembly with double-sided tape.)

4. Remove the volume button board

TouchScreen cable

Remove the TouchScreen cable:
1. Release the system board ZIF connector (1) to which the TouchScreen cable is attached, and then disconnect the TouchScreen cable from the system board.
2. Release the display panel ZIF connector (2) to which the TouchScreen cable is attached, and then disconnect the TouchScreen cable from the display panel.
3. Detach the TouchScreen cable (3) from the battery. (The TouchScreen cable is attached to the battery with double-sided tape.)
4. Remove the TouchScreen cable (4).

Battery

Remove the tablet battery:
1. Remove the six Phillips PM2.0×2.5 screws (1) that secure the battery to the display assembly.
2. Release the speaker cable (2) from the clip built into the battery.

3. Remove the battery (3) from the display assembly.

Bottom cover

1. Remove the front (1) and rear rubber feet (2).

2. Remove the six Phillips PM2.0×6.35 screws (3) that secure the bottom cover to the keyboard/ top cover.

3. Remove the bottom cover (4)

Apple Thunderbolt Display – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the display – How to remove the power supply – how to remove the mother board

SPECIFICATION 

27" TFT Active-Matrix LCD
2560 by 1440 Pixel Resolution
Built-in Thunderbolt and MagSafe Cables
FaceTime HD Camera with Microphone
49 Watt 2.1 Speaker System
16:9 Widescreen Aspect Ratio

The Thunderbolt Display contains a sweet lineup of USB, HDMI, VGA, and DisplayPort ports
The luscious backside of the Thunderbolt Display contains only a small line of specified ports:
Three powered USB 2.0 ports
FireWire 800 port
Thunderbolt port
Gigabit Ethernet port.
The Thunderbolt Display also comes with a built-in Thunderbolt cable attached to a Universal MagSafe cable.

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Much like the iMac we tore apart earlier this year (and the iMacs before it), the Thunderbolt
Display's front glass panel comes off with the help of some heavy duty suction cups.

It's time to take a look under the hood. A few connectors and a ground screw are all that prevent the freedom of the LCD

The 27-inch (diagonal) TFT activematrix LCD has a resolution of 2560 by 1440 pixels, the standard for displays of this size and price. Its 12 ms response time and 16.7 million colors, however, fall short of the 6 ms response time and 1.07 billion colors

The back of the LCD display has only a few cables, none too exciting:

DisplayPort
LED backlight
LED backlight sync
Ground loop.
The LG display reads model number LM270WQ1.

It appears to be the same display found in the iMac Intel 27"

With  LCD removed you get a full frontal view of the Thunderbolt Display's inner layout.

The fan is easily removed simply by detaching a couple of connectors and unfastening a few screws.

Apple has, as usual, chosen to go with a large, brushless fan to keep the colossal Thunderbolt Display nice and cool.

In pursuit of self-preservation, begin by disconnecting the power supply connector from its socket on the logic board to prevent any electrifying experiences.

A few more T10 Torx screws bite the dust at the hand of our bit driver kit, and the logic board is detached.

Remove a plethora, of connectors from the logic board, leaving only the brains behind the Thunderbolt port between us and the display's control center.

A few T6 Torx screws are knocked out to remove the connector cover, and the Thunderbolt cable is disconnected.

Interestingly enough, the Thunderbolt cable that routes into the display also plugs into a standard Thunderbolt socket on the logic board. Apple could have just soldered the cable wires to the board, but instead chose to implement a cover that prevents the cable from being detached from the logic board's Thunderbolt socket

St. Damien's beard! The front of the logic board includes these stellar packages:

Pericom PI7C9X440SL PCIe-to-USB 2.0 host controller L129NB11 EFL, which looks to be the Thunderbolt port controller (as viewed in the second picture)
Analog Devices ADAV4601 audio processor
NXP LPC2144 USB 2.0 microcontroller
Delta LFE9249 10/100/1000 Base-T LAN filter
SMSC USB2517-JZX USB 2.0 hub controller
LPC 1114F

Sweet grandmother's spatula! The back of the board also contains doodles of chips:

Maxim MAX9736B Mono/Stereo
High-Power Class D Amplifier
Texas Instruments LC573A Dtype Latch
Silego SLG8SP568VCK505 Clock Generator
LSI L-FW643E-2 Open Host Controller Interface
Broadcom BCM57761 Gigabit ethernet controller
Texas Instruments NH245 Dual Supply Translator
Supertex HV9982 3-channel switch-mode LED driver IC

With the logic board removed, we move on to the power supply board.

A few screws and connectors are all that are stopping us from removing the board.
Make quick work of them and the Flextronics power supply board comes free.

Thunderbolt Display's power supply board

About 250 watts of maximum continuous power

You will see some fairly large speaker enclosures (well, for a monitor) near the side edges of the Thunderbolt Display and eagerly remove the screws holding them in place.

The Thunderbolt Display comes with a 49 watt 2.1-speaker sound system, including a miniature subwoofer.

A couple screws and a single connector keep the HD FaceTime camera secured to the case.

The front side of the camera board:

cFeon LV010-45RNIP 11113A 1110ADA
The rear side of the camera board:
Vimicro VC0338BSMCB Camera Controller
Texas Instruments TPS65708 Power Management Unit

Apple MacBook Pro 15 – How to dismantle the Display

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.
You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw.

Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.
Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.
Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the

AirPort/Bluetooth board.

De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:

One 3.8 mm Phillips
One 8.6 mm Phillips

Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.

Remove two of the three 6 mm T6

Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.
We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.
While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

Apple Wireless Keyboard – Disassembling procedure

To open the battery compartment, on the left side of the keyboard use a coin to loosen the screw off cover.
The keyboard's power button is on the right side

The upper left hand corner (when turned over) of the keyboard contains the On/Off switch and the bluetooth board.

The removable plastic covering plate may be removed by squeezing it together to release the retaining hooks, Do one side at a time, Squeeze and rotate upward.

The plastic is very stiff and there are three sets of two hooks on each side. This one has been deformed on the back right hand side from a heat gun.

There is a 90 mm by 12 mm circuit board intersected by a vertical 53 mm by 7 mm board forming a T shape. The vertical board appears to be the bluetooth antenna.
Part # 820-2181 is printed on the board.
This board also has the Power Indicating LED light. This board fits inside the round casing unit by the power button. The power button, battery connector and keyboard all connect to this board.

Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap. Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket. It slides out from under the 'vertical' board. Shouldn't be too difficult.

The board is held in place with a small Phillips screw.

Ater removing the screw the board can be gently extricated from the tube. The white plastic disc to the right of the screw needs to be pushed to the right to free up the board.
Note the red and black wires. This connector inserts laterally. The wires go to the battery receptor in the middle of the tube.
The screw is in two parts, a phillips screw goes into a post screw. The top screw holds in the board and the post screw holds the On/Off switch in place.

Here's the obverse of the board. There is a black two prong connector that plugs into the board from the power switch.

The wires run under a small plastic retaining tab and can be moved downward and out.

The power switch is held in place by the Main Board Bracket. Apple Part # 815-9674. The end of the bracket has a small round protrusion that fits into a crescent shaped cut out on the power switch.

The Power Button Board can be pushed out from the inside.
The red wire goes to "TP2", the black wire to "TP1"

The internal battery terminal can be knocked out with a long screwdriver. It is spring loaded and held in place by a metal expansion ring.

I could not discern how the exact placement is determined as the interior of the tube appears to be perfectly smooth.

More photos of the battery terminal.

Removal of the back of the keyboard was done using a heat gun and a scalpel.

Heating the board quickly warps and destroys it.
Glue is all over the bottom plate. It was separated by pulling it apart and slicing the glue with a scalpel.

There are ten 2 mm screws located on the back of the board.

The keyboard is pushed away from the frame.

The layers are pulled apart. Frame, plastic separator layer, printed circuit layer

Here can be seen the layers of the frame, separator, circuit board and metal back plate.

Here we can see the different types of key mounting and scissor mountings

Keys can be easily removed by using a scalpel or fingernail under the left side and lifted.

Here you can see the pole that the screw went in. You can remove this, which allows you to remove the power button and the white housing.

Also, here is the battery terminal (spring loaded) which had to be forced out.

Samsung ATIV Smart PC 500T – Disassembling procedure – Laptop replace the camera

Remove the stylus from the device.
Place the device screen-up on a hard surface, like a table.

Insert a plastic pry tool or opening pick between the glass and plastic case.

Work your way around the plastic edge, unclipping the backplate.
Once the clips are loosened, remove the backplate. Some force may be necessary.
Though you may need to use force, be careful of the pry tool slipping and hurting you!

Disconnect the three ribbon cables from the motherboard to free the battery.

Use your finger to lift the flap securing each ZIF connector.
Slide the ribbon cable out and towards you. Now it should be completely detached.
Repeat with the other two cables.

Get a firm hold of the power cable as close to the clip as you can.

Pull the power cable up and out of the clip.

Remove the six 3.5-mm screws using the Phillips #00 screwdriver.

Lift the battery out by hooking your finger under the tab on the top side of the battery and pulling it up and towards you. The battery should come out easily.

Gently lift the front-facing camera with your forefinger.

Grip the camera with your thumb and forefinger and lift up to remove the camera from the socket at its base.

Apple Magic Mouse - Disassembling procedure

SPECIFICATIONS 

Multi-touch gesture control
Bluetooth wireless connectivity
Lightning port (for charging and pairing)
Internal lithium-ion battery

DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 

Slightly warm up the bottom of the mouse

In the previous model, strong adhesive secured the aluminum belly to the mouse.

Apple has mentioned that their mouse has an "optimized foot design." Peel off those feet, the new model hides screws underneath.

After lots of heat and half a dozen prying tools wedged under the casing, the mouse is partially released from the gluey mess beneath.

Finally separate the lower casing from the mouse and get first view of its  midframe.

Popping four plastic clips open lets into the battery chamber.

It turns out these clips are actually part of the rocking/clicking mechanism for the single top shell/button.

Also check that clear acrylic. It's only painted on the underside, leaving the top and sides clear.

With the upper casing lifted up, get a clear view of what makes this mouse so senseational that capacitative array.

The capacitative array makes this mouse a bit of a trackpad hybrid, allowing it to detect touch on its surface, registering gestures made without even moving the mouse.

Finally Screws, Unfortunately, they're holding down a bracket over a ribbon cable which prevents us from separating the mouse bits just yet but hey, that ribbon cable.

seatbelt will make the mouse better withstand drops.

Finally separate from the base of the mouse, the upper casing provides a clearer view of its capacitative touch-sensing array.

A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse.

Broadcom BCM20733 Enhanced Data Rate Bluetooth 3.0 Single-Chip Solution

Unknown 303S0499 probably a proprietary Apple touch controller
NXP 1608A1 Charging IC
Texas Instruments 56AYZ21
ST Microelectronics STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32-bit RISC ARM Cortex-M3

Hiding beneath the logic board, find a teensy switch that makes the mouse click its click.

It held in only by the board above, and is a welcome relief after wading through the rest of this tar pit.

As a common failure part for computer mice, it's nice that Apple used a fairly standard and easilysourced switch although its replacement will require dealing with all of that glue (and soldering in the replacement switch).

Turn our attention to the battery, which sits snug as a bug in its little plastic box, making it annoying to extract.

As it turns out, that's not the only thing holding it down there's a mess of glue to contend with as well. Removing the battery is even less fun than we feared.

The Magic Mouse 2's battery shares a common feature with the Apple TV Remote the Lightning connector is soldered to the battery cable.

This small accessory doesn't pack light that 3.67 V, 7.28 Wh, 1986 mAh li-ion cell holds about 9% more powerful than the one in the iPhone 6s

The Lightning port and battery can be replaced (as a single component), independent of the logic board if you can get the device open.

Replacing a malfunctioning switch requires prying through intense adhesive and soldering.

Excessive use of strong adhesive makes it very difficult to remove the rear panel, hinderingaccess to every internal component.